400 km skating on Lake Baikal
It all started with a dream. Dream to see the purest ice of Lake Baikal, Siberia, to touch the shrine, feel the power of the Lakes and absorb its beauty. Although in addition to such high moral thinking did not leave the idea is just to drive on skates at the rink and shoot hefty Baikal ice beauty.
The path length of 400 km skating has been passed by us in less than 2 weeks and fit in these lines. I'll tell you about a great winter trip: about pure ice of Lake Baikal, about old friends and new good friends, about the sunsets, sunrises and gloomy sky, the good and evil spirits of Olkhon.
Dreams dreams, but it is much nicer when they are carried out. 2 more years ago I was born the idea - to conquer the Baikal. First thoughts were, of course, a little crazy: go around the lake, or at least from the South to the North. Then it turned out that the ice is rarely pure in the South and the North, and there you can just dig in the snow - and get off the route.
Therefore began to appear more realistic option: Olkhon Buguldeika, Listvyanka ... Began to look for a team. It turned out that people do not understand me a little ridge in question. Sometimes even feel a little loopy when staring at you with round eyes with phrases like: "Skating ?! Yes, you will die there in the first hour - there is hard ... "" You are there because the wind will blow that fly so far to the Barguzin ridge ... "" Fly to Irkutsk in Europe is worth. "
My soothing phrases in response to these pochemuchek were simple: "Yes, there is a special skates! And find tickets cheap "," In the same winter quarters and hostels are everywhere - hide as Sarma blows. " Soothing phrases have not worked - and the guys who went where: who Hibiny who Sayan, traditional skiing.
I think if I just did not have the power to infect the enthusiasm of his friends: Phystech handed a diploma that year, there was some anxiety about the future and uncertainty.
One of course I did not go - the dream is boiled in the head even once a year. But she's so weary that this year just decided, I go! I began to write friends and strangers to Irkutsk, which could help in the preparation of an adequate route and help organize transportation. Yourself first broke the entire head, how to optimally plan your route, nowhere to get stuck, and a lot of time to look. People's opinions were very different. Someone suggested to base 25 km a day, someone is 50. Baikal Ice is always changing: the snow falls, or a crack on the hummocks find - and write-lost even 10 km a day pass.
Full reports on the ridge expeditions I have not found, and they are meaningless in this situation. Chosen as the basis of 25-35 km and Buguldeika as a starting point. Thought, at least until the Small Sea Dothan - and there and you can go if that. So selecting the appropriate term: 2 weeks, running from them for 12 days.
For some reason, even if the figure of 120 km on skates seemed to me upbeat. And slightly grinned over his route. But in the end of the journey all surprised that my house nakalyakat route so well coincided with the fact that we later defeated. And here is what we have conquered:
In preparation for the expedition was very helpful angara.net forum site. People go to sports and responsive, can be found for travel and car on zabrosku. Big mistake was to call the bus dispatcher Irkutsk. Dull irritated voice aunt-radish of reference narrated to me about that "nothing goes there, and even no longer ask". However, it turned out that the buses run, and even have a choice of where to sit, they're just with each other, "not friends". So if you want to save - Go to the shuttle bus in winter is only 400 rubles to the IFA.
We booked a car to Buguldeika: we have 5 people, with large backpacks - that we will get in the way people in the minibus ride. Bargain to 4 million with the driver, it is considered the normal price - above only for Muscovites. And when we were able to buy plane tickets for 11 thousand - the joy was simply no limit. Equipment also searched for what is called "the world": skates partially taken from friends who already went to Lake Baikal. Their horses had to alter: place attachment on the snowboard (lyamochki and fasteners). 2 A pair of skates, we were quite extraordinary: Sasha brought from Norway special hiking skates! Light, with comfortable straps - sight for sore eyes! But they cost suitable ...
Protection and fastening of snowboard given one, but still there were many people who helped sleeping bags (we took 2 pieces per person or very warm), fasteners and other rags-iron things-plastmasskami. And also for the ridge hike took Soviet ski sticks, their pre-sharpened.
For information on the Baikal beauty of the place can be found for example here:
A card for zhps here:
We monitored the ice situation almost every day:
Now, for example, it is clear that the snow still completely carried away. Baikal is getting ready for spring.
Before going to spent a couple of workouts. Not to say that we are skaters or any seasoned skaters. Some of us skating once stood a couple of times. So we stayed at these trainings at the mere enthusiasm to go to Lake Baikal.
However, the enthusiasm had not provided us with protection against falls and bruises successful. One of the training was in Shatura - there I naively wanted to experience skating on a real lake, but the snow piled up this year, we bless you.
It turned out to be trained only on the rink. It was also decided to take a sled drawing backpacks. Such special hiking sledge, plastic. By the way, one of Moscow's rollers me shamefully kicked Norwegian skates. Apparently, for the excess. And they can be dispersed to 25 km / h couple hoof strikes. On their gps then checked on Baikal.
However, the result of training does not frighten us, except that added to the list of equipment of our cat (which was then absurd). And yet I came up with a beautiful and very sensible idea to take an ice ax and drills for fixing tent on the ice. But borax and ice ax were very excited to go on the lake, but vylazit backpack and did not want to. So, the day of departure. The standard picture of what there to conceal: nuclear explosion swept our miserable rags all over the room, remains a couple of hours to collect all in a heap in a backpack. Compaction in the most brutal form did not help: the backpack was a giant. Affected our thrifty: 2 sleeping, cat, warm clothes, fotobarahlo in large numbers: Nikon d80, Nikkor 50 1.8, Nikkor 70-300 4.5 / 5.6 vr, Tamron 17-50 f 2.8, tripod, GoPro.
However, it somehow managed to wear. Scale showed 40 kg. Well at least to me out of the house in Korolev near to the train drag (about Baikal somehow I even tried not to remember). However, do not turn sour presence gave sledge for these behemoths.
All sit down. Train, subway, train, plane. Good passengers naparyvayutsya our stuff, watching us with cries of "romance, damn it." On inspection of all are long swords in backpacks and grenades. Not used, apparently, to the hikers on skates.
Well, that's finally escaped from the clutches of Moscow. It's a blessing, when the dream starts to come true when in front - an adventure, full of life, light and movement. And so the house can be stuhnut: power pulls this city just as if he eats a lot of scurrying people.
Airplane dawned forgotten thermoses. Well, that will have to wait from 5 am, when the plane will fly up to 10 - to wait for the opening of the store. More had to meet Loshku, he had just returned from a night hike through the Eastern Sayan. Loshu met immediately: we left a brown seasoned tourist. His view is clearly reminded us that we will soon be as beautiful. We repack - buy the rest Hawk - and go!
Driver Serge - taciturn drilled. But very calm and reasonable, drowns in his crocodile through the hills and foothills from Tanzheran. Clear blue sky, sun blinds. Trees fly past, villages, houses, prairies - cut down from two sleepless nights - again half asleep looking at parched color. Whether your eyes are tired, or not used to the sun: It seems washed-out, almost black and white. And the silence, only the car engine is running, takes us on full steam in Buguldeika. Well, we've come! It is already visible - a piece of the dream, the bend. Trying to buy water in the shop for lunch - no, there is only carbonated. Aunt in the store is clearly amused by my question about water. Well, lunch then somehow have to cook. We wanted a quick, so the ice does not sink. We reached the shore of Lake Baikal. Lepota! But while somehow scared to go out, this is an open space for the first time out. But once it was supposed to happen - out, a bit like on the ice. Impressions of the most unusual, delight. On the shore - big chunks of white stones. Apparently, marble.
Buguldeika was formerly workers' settlements for transportation of timber rafts on Lake Baikal, and there was a marble quarry. And there used to be an airfield. And now somehow all bent, many abandoned houses. I continue to search for water. I came to the site, where the man tried to forcefully demolish the shed, toilet deft movements. I asked to bring water. The rather whiskered smile and the phrase "And there Che - no?" (Indicating in the world toward the largest freshwater water) - I have nothing but stupid smile in response could not tell. Man, however, she did not resist - and the water brought.
had lunch. Life is Beautiful. Satisfied fed balls popping out on the ice. Such beauty - though do not go anywhere. Crawl across the ice, icicles and Lapa icicles like children. We collapsed on ice and look at bubbles cracks, turquoise coastal ice. Picture: 5 people crawling on the ice waving paws, running back and forth and splashing unaccustomed to the ice, shouting to each other enthusiastic phrases. Well here you might think the local fishermen?
Well, nothing, accustomed. Stood on skates, tried - rolled great, you can even turn the pedals almost - by itself carries. Immediately came up with the design, how to fix a rope to the sled belt. Good luck!
The first hour was very unfortunate in terms of mileage. I showered every icicles and tried to find the right angle, take a picture of ice hummocks. A hummocks around Buguldeika were among the largest and most beautiful on the whole our way: huge turquoise ice fragments were piled near the shore. The first sensation of riding - the freshest and brightest: then all the bored roll on the ice.
As shown satellite photographs, ice - clean. Just a huge skating rink. Easily visible white hills Barguzin ridge on the other side.
Backpack somehow hangs himself quietly back on the ice, it is not annoying and does not pull back. Day turns short: it is necessary to have time to winter quarters, and already Evening. Too busy with long icicles.
In the evening crept slowly clouds, gray Khmara lay in the sun. Beautiful sunsets to be seen. But already climbed to the shore, looking for a cabin. Not a bit of it. No winter quarters, and there is no trace, although noted on the map. Here's your cape "Naked": it was necessary to get a grasp of the name ... But we are not upset: climbed the hill, stared at the setting sun, set up tents, lit a fire - to cook a delicious meal.
That night fell. Surprised, she got a full moon. It seems that before you - a whole sea where splashing water, reflecting small lunar ripples.
Went for a walk on the night the ice, leaving my friends to cook around the campfire. Baikal squeaks, hoots, talking in his sleep. Harsh sounds, crackles and gurgling first shudder, but then you get used. I felt the power, the power of the lake. It lives, resists the chains of ice. Upstairs in the heavenly silence - the stars in front of - the moon under your feet - chornota transparent ice, there was already water column. Natural space!
In order to get to the shore of the lake has to climb over a pile of hummocks on the shore. Small pieces of ice break up easily and loudly. Dig among hummocks night - a fun activity. A feeling that the uninvited visitor wandered by chance at the cemetery of broken bottles and built there an uproar. As it is a shame to wake up so Baikal ... I'll go eat, and sleep.
Something not too hot waking up. The internal temperature of -30 thermometer prompts. Hoarfrost falling from the top of the tent by the neck until dostaosh his body from a sleeping bag and tuck into boots numb. Czech thermometer screwed someone's tent, did not seem to mind my internal thermometer: Czech has the ball at around -30 and red liquid clinging chilly inside this most of the ball, not wanting to go upstairs.
Khmara will not go away in the evening. Movement - that's life, warming skating.
This morning I was upset this weather, and for dinner (and even more so - then) realized that the clouds over Lake Baikal - a real gift to the photographer.
Ice quietly fades, the clouds fly at a low height, blocking the sun - and we, single men, we roll into the wilderness of Lake Baikal.
Not a soul around: no cars, birds and people. Only the wind noise, and the ice is cracking.
Ice perfect: smooth, smooth. Slide on this - a pleasure. Sometimes on the way we meet the cracks. About them, I was very upset at home. I am thinking - how will pass, even a rope to want to take insurance. But then we were lucky: all the cracks were closed huge hummocks, and everywhere it was possible to get through to the next blank portion.
We came to the Cape Krestovsky. On the mountain really is a cross, and next - a settlement of farmers. The weather is getting worse. Clouds down, probably soon go snow or strong wind rises. Unsettling feeling.
From fear for their own skins saves idea about a cow on ice: next to the farm, right on the hummocks in cows. I do not know what they guzzle, poor fellows, but they are clearly life does not seem raspberries here. And we have a new dream - to see a cow on ice. Traces of their stormy of life here throughout ...
Even stopped specially to wait until the cow deign to come out to us on the ice. But there it was - they did not want us to show-ballet suit. But we had seen plenty of ice hummocks on the shore. Ice near the shore extraordinarily beautiful turquoise. Lie afford such lumps and think, with what kind of force was to Baikal to rage, to throw these pieces on the beach!
a snack, lunch on ice - we go further. Then we drove up to the car. The men offer us climb up to them - and to go to the baths in the house in the gully. Their appearance is clearly affected not the best way March 8: red bulging eyes of men, hoarse voice sleepy and lazy grin insistently demanded us to his home and bath. Severe Siberian marketing ... But horses - a good thing, they have informed to the crack, and its men are not going to move. And went further in his bath. To them and the way in this bath.
Hummocks - like wings or sails ships - rise above the black lake and ice. Look into the enchanting depth of the water under a - it is addictive, mesmerizing.
And in the meantime the weather is changing every second: the clouds are gathering, the bowl of the Great Lakes straining under the leaden clouds, ready to smash to pieces the next ice floe at the crack of the sound effects shatters ice.
You close your eyes to rest between Distilleries - and see a network of cracks. They still imprinted somewhere in the brain and sometimes sweep bright lines in the head. Interestingly, this Baikal now lives in me, so leaving your mark? The peace and harmony. Disturbing silence. What to expect from this wild? Zhmomsya closer to the shore, while the rolls well. Sometimes the air intrude sharp shots sound of breaking ice.
Along the shores of Lake Baikal ice is completely different hue than a kilometer away. If someone had a barrel of paint drowned: bright and glowing as if from within. Inside - a frozen-thin filaments bubbles and other objects obviously alien origin. Here the artist has tried to Nature!
Then the sun began to appear occasionally through the clouds, illuminating the ice as though from within. I recall all kinds of physical things, in order to muffle the natural fear of an impending element. For example, I recall that in the south of Lake Baikal is a wonderful plant for catching neutrinos. Baikalsky neutrino telescopes - beautiful thing: it consists of hundreds of pairs of light-sensitive photomultipliers (PMTs "Quasar") fixed to several cables and lowered into the lake at a depth of more than a kilometer. Externally, the structure is a pile of beads strung on a thread. Passing through water neutrino reacts with the substance, the muon forming. A muon already generates Cerenkov radiation. That is what is caught and PMT. science, science, and we have to stomp on.
Still rolling along the beach all day exhausting. Sometimes you want to come closer to the shore, to stare at the hummocks, icicles. But the ice and then worse, we have a lot of land to go around, skillfully wielding a backpack on a string by entering it into the police reversals that he floes not bumped or overturned.
And here again ledyshek field begins. Scientists have estimated that for a stretch of 30 km and a temperature change in the 20 ° extension of ice will make as much as 42 meters. That is, the ice just as hummocks and released, scattering shards of such clear coats. And these fragments is so transparent that through them you can even read the book! Of course, it would be interesting to see how fettered Baikal ice. They say that first formed the floating ice. He was carried into the lake by rivers formed from the split sokuy - ledyshek, the frozen rocks and shores. The wind plays with huge blocks of ice, tossing them like toys to each other. Then the ice floes are more and more - and they start sticking together. So fettered Baikal. This ice - very nasty for the skater he opaque and uneven due napleskov waves. Roll on it - like along the tracks on the bike ... But the ice (it is called "osenets") is considered the most reliable. There is another nasty ice - kolobovnik. For him to go - hell: apart plates stick ice napleski and irregularities.
In the reflections on Lake Baikal began to snow. Clouds gently down on the ice, all was quiet around - and small snow flakes slowly began to cover the entire surface of the lake. Snowflakes gather in the islands, dance bizarre dance on a quiet breeze come together and get away from us, skaters. Honestly - I expected to see the wind, preparing for what will have to mosey away to the shore if explode with great force. But there was just a very nice: snowflakes silently glide in small streams. Time fades, fades. You look at it and you wonder, how everything in nature is harmonious and musical.
The surface of the ice now all covered with snow. Not for long, we have seen the purest ice enjoyed the flight over that space. But still beautiful: clouds, sunbeams pieces away, soft fresh snow.
roll becomes a little harder. Snow hampers sleigh with backpacks, but skates glide well. Go hot, a lot of energy is released during such exercises on the ice.
I have the 2nd day in a hurry and ragged pace to catch up with their group: I want to and take pictures and have time to pass intended. Such rate on my good health is not affected: first, to develop a strong strain of the foot, almost without rest after the whole day
And in the evening sick tendons or ligaments, where the heel, but a little higher. The ride was painful. So be careful with your pace and relax, if you are thinking to Baikal, take care of their feet. By the way, the rest of the guys legs do not hurt, everything was fine the whole of our long journey.
In the evening came to a bay where was located zimovo. On the map it is marked as Letnikov is located in the bay the depth of two kilometers from the shore. All so tired that we already want to stay right on the beach: too lazy to drag backpacks 2 km to the house. Go to the hut for exploration. Already lowered the evening, it is necessary to quickly determine where to live. Piercing cold wind blows. By evening, much colder standing still can not - kick in immediately. We come to the house. Around - the traces of a bear, probably, he here recently otlezhivat: traces of fresh snow and the grass has not had time to descend to the tracks. This is bad, we are wary. Around - dirt, earth, dung. We go in the house - no one. There is a stove, bunks, tables. A little dirty - but tolerable. The main thing is that the stove is: in such a cold and the wind is a big help. Go back to the shore, they decided to play in democracy: who is going to stay here on the coast at the mercy of the winds, anyone - to get on the hill nearby. Played - and that's enough, let's go in the house. Already night fell. We heat the stove, there is a bit of wood in the house. We would like to coach more firewood from the forest. I came out of the house for firewood in the forest on the hill, I gaze into the twilight: there are no wild beasts around, place something completely wild. Oops, it seems that far away sat a teddy bear and sniffs the air ... Just a thought - to come into the house, check the door. Fortunately, there is lock on the door. Peered more, in the dark is not so simple: Now is clearly not far, just running around in the forest wolf - is bustling in the forest border. Confuse difficult: it moves actively dashes. The desire to go for firewood somehow lost: be belated delicacy dinner starved beasts somehow did not want to, with all due sympathy to their difficult life. Cooking dinner, somehow depressed: the day of trouble, and even beasts exasperated by their presence. But nothing today Kirill Birthday candles in a cake, congratulations, delicious dinner - relaxed and lay down to sleep. Morning beautiful. As the clouds had happened, and the wind gives hope to see a clean lake ice once more. It turns out that the bear had left his place in the morning dense bush, and not too lazy to dig it thoroughly ... But the lake is now grazing horses, raised the muzzle, nostrils uncovered - welcome travelers.
This day - a bright, sunny, windy. We go along the coast, the ice is so-so: with large islands of snow that we retarding. Could not the wind blow away everything. But those pieces of ice, which were laid bare, well attract attention.
About Baikal ice can talk endlessly. And display images. Everywhere it's different: the cracks, fissures, bubbles, seaweed.
Baikal ice covered completely, except in the area of 20-25 km at the source Sheds. On average, the ice is kept for six months in the north and a bit less - in the South.
Sometimes the form of ice has a regular structure, like a crystal, but for the most part - a chaotic network of cracks, petals diverge in all directions.
An Evening at Lake Baikal - the triumph of special effects. Gurgling, gnashing, scratching beautifully complemented flying apart under their feet cracked. You go on the ice - and you escape from fractures and cracks with a distinctive crunch.
remains a dozen kilometers to the Olkhon Gates. But we probably did not even have time for today. Day due to snow islands stood out hard, to go 35 km.
The sun blinding bright. My friends even stripped to the waist - go skating half-naked. So you can burn, the sun was already spring. Puffing like locomotives.
But it is better than the frost in the morning and evening: warm and spring-like joy.
So the sun was already sinking towards the horizon, ready for the winter sleep. And we go to the beach. Sun per day imbedded fallen snow, of freezing him to the ice. Chances ride all the decreases on the smooth pure ice. On the one hand, we look forward to a strong wind, on the other - you want him to at least in the back blowing.
At the shore is traditionally a lot of cracks, hummocks. Map here - winter road or Letnik. But the cards again fed: winter road and there was not a trace. But the bay is clearly habitable: broken glass, heaps of garbage, the remains of huts on the slopes. We break camp right next to the beach, on the ground. Coldly.
Morning. Dawns. I volunteered to wake up first to the very early hour, to prepare a fire, melt the ice. Duty we have - as we want and prepare. too much coercion is not necessary in a small friendly company. And I do not regret that he woke up. Dawn is beautiful. Clear strong lines cut through the horizon.
They say that when the dawn red or purple-red, and the sun comes out from behind the clouds, or the ragged clouds - then wait for the weather. Beach is very beautiful: a wild place!
take a closer look ...
And still a little closer to this beautiful tree.
The sun rises over the horizon, scattering sunbeams from the field hummocks. It seems that the sea in front of you with unusual color of water.
It is a pity that such a short sunrise on Lake Baikal in spring. Do not have time to be fascinated sun - and it already runs upstairs on the horizon ...
Again, we are waiting for the big stage. At this time - to the most cherished Olkhon Gate. Olkhon has seen for a long time, a large sausage island lies on the horizon (something only the 4th day of the expedition, and gastronomic themes have become tiresome to come to mind).
Well, we here arrived. The path is blocked us a huge wet crack. It is unclear how to jump through it, so stop for lunch. Here the distance passes a loaf through the crack. That's where we are and go. Quietly moved, not even water. Lesch almost a month in the campaigns, first for Sayan, is now with us. This polar explorer!
Olkhon Gate - a dangerous place. By car, few dare to travel there (go, of course, but not as active as in the Small Sea). And though the wind died in the Great Sea, there is always a breeze. This - the birthplace of Sarma. "In general, in terms of Baikal winds is a unique place. Pundits estimate that at the lake there are several constant winds and a lot of wandering. Buryat and Tungus, for centuries living on the shores of this lake considered all these wind long before pundits and already many of these winds to give their names and nasochinyat lot of legends associated with them. I like all sorts of legends, and now can not wait to share one of them. it is called - Omulevaya barrel. The way to tell a little bit about the legend cisco to legend was understandable.
Baikal fishermen know that cisco walks in huge schools and if came across a herd, then pray that the network is not broken, because the fish in it stuffed so much that already captures the spirit. Even the edge of the jamb hook network - a great joy. Only here in the route pattern of movement of stocks one can not count, so it turns out that today a lot, and tomorrow is empty. Buryats tied together especially with fishing lake winds, and there you are:
Walk on Lake Baikal, two brothers - wind (Kultuk and Sarma), and chase on the lake omulevuyu barrel. Play it, run a race. So much so that splinters of it fly (omul shoals). Many of the people prey on this barrel. Thirst Croesus moves them, and they spend their useless lives in search of the barrel. Brothers winds are laughing at them, turning their boats and sent to the bottom, but the number of greedy fellows is not diminished, in fact caught the barrel can become the master of Baikal. One day the brothers began to play drum thrown very far, but a poor fisherman, was released into the sea to catch some fish for his family accidentally caught her network.
- What do you want instead? - asked the fisherman winds - Give us a kick and we will fulfill your every desire.
- There is nothing I do not need - said poor fisherman - This barrel is yours.
The brothers were surprised generosity fisherman and from that day his net to catch as much fish as it was necessary that enough to feed the whole family. Respecting the fishermen, the brothers to this day fill their nets with fish, depriving only the greedy, who are still looking for omulevuyu barrel. Here is a legend. Beautiful. "
Soon, the ice is absolutely killed: Sarma tried. But we still persist in this way until the base Oltrek 15 km. We were lying on the ice, rest. Many do not prolezhit - blowing cold, and sick as possible.
Do not worry - we arrive, we are waiting for a warm house, a delicious dinner. I have to hurry. We came to the base of the night. Here we were met by Jura. Jura - an amazing person. He received us with such warmth and caring, worrying about our warmth, of that we were well fed. And it brings us water, and helped clean the stove, and came about Baikal - said.
After Moscow "hospitality" We were just astounded by such kindness in Oltreke. I think that thanks to people on Baikal want to return again and again.