A day in the life of herders
Detail of one of the days that I spent in visiting herders, life-shepherds Stadnikov.
The picture is not done immediately as the day began. But I will put it in the beginning, so it was clear what it was about. Base herders - a lonely hut and surrounding tundra. The nearest settlement is about 50 km. Naturally, there are no roads. You can only move on reindeer or snowmobile.
Wake up - tea. This is true Chinese herdsmen drink drink without exaggeration somewhere every half hour.
At this time of the year in the north of his strength polar night, so that the street still dark, because the image of interior decoration and other entourage.
Everywhere hanging raznoraznaya materiel, some tools and other equipment owned for a long time who left this world people, so that steel artifacts, things like that, along with the news -. Such as a ski mask - located across the hut, roaming out of the corner on a nail, and t. d.
are someone's tOborki, is something like a well-known sapogov- "Bog", but made of "Coiba" (skins removed from the deer feet).
kerosene stove ... until the base of the little "dizelka" herders purchased pool their savings, it has been an indispensable source of light in an almost round the clock darkness of polar night. Reliability, shimmered always ready now.
Peter. Wonderful people. His father was a very famous and skilful reindeer herder, a multiple winner of the annual races on reindeer. But Peter himself somehow did not become a reindeer herder, he manages the whole economy - chum-worker. (By the way, chum-workers and now teaches at a vocational school). Later I show it to the library - Peter reads constantly. In the background - a small DVD player, while I was plaguing bytya in those regions, thanks to this device, I was forced to contemplate all part of the series "Forester".
Outside. Vysheozvuchenny running a diesel generator.
But for me it was a big surprise, free advertising. The fact that this "damn" I discovered shortly before a trip to the north, and he knew only 2 places in St. Petersburg, where it is sold - very tasty thing, if not tried, do it - you will not regret. In general, to meet the product out there, I did not expect ... great advertising, I think :) Who really has a lot to notice where the "damn", even have different companies, but the real - "Slavic gift" - not to be confused. Someone from the company reads this post? Where are my royalties? :)
Remembering the fixation. In general, if we talk about the time, there is something quite different: tyanuchee, tangible, is as valuable as a knife or fuel and the same as they are subject. (Hopefully, I explained available).
Outside, the dawn. In the season of the work of people in the house becomes very much huddle here on these bunks for four, or even more.
begins leisurely preparation, will soon be out of the tundra and other deadwood to drive the herd.
The dog and them here as much as there are people, breakfast someone's scalp.
An end view.
Herders - exceptional people. In recent years, I clearly grasped one banal, because the real thing - the greatest wealth of the north - not natural beauty, not resources, not the northern lights, flora and fauna, and as you may have guessed, the main value and wealth - people.
This is not a tent, it is prepared firewood.
And again. A further unknown how many kilometers - vast expanses
Reindeer do everything with your hands, including the sled (sleigh).
window thawed over time. At night I went to sleep, suffering from the heat, t. To. Sunk very powerful, and woke up shivering and wrapped in reindeer skins.
and harness the reindeer to the nearest vegetation (the road from the fairy tale "Jack Frost"), there is near - the corral.
On the way.
We arrived to clear and prepare the corral (special deer enclosure) to approach the herd. Corral - a labyrinth of chambers. Herd, after being driven into the corral, begin to assume dehorn, tag, etc. birkovat. And on different grounds to place the camera.
have worked - back tea.
All the field
And this, as I said, the computer :) This recorded data - how many, with some herds, which were driven deer and other information..
trap, some kind of harness utensils and other artifacts ... everywhere ...
What is the star of this - I could not answer.
Another picture. I will take you away to the tundra ...
View from the hut in any part of the world.
Another wonderful person - Uncle Vova. All who are in the frame, by nationality - Komi. By the way, in conversations with Russian Komi go at any time, so very often, I do not understand anything of what he heard :)
At this point, cut and sawed like wood and frozen carcasses than lead in animal ecstasy dogs tied to the host's sledges.
And another picture.
And this is how it is possible to guess - the kitchen.
Reindeer hides everywhere.
More window, just like that.
Already familiar to kettles, there are many of them - probably 7-8 pieces. If the nose of the furnace - it means the water has boiled.
I have finished school in Murmansk, so that this rarity could not help but impress.
to catch a rare moment when no one was there. The hut photographed almost always in secret, so as not to be an irritant. I'm there coexisted with the men, and how to get there - the story ... is quite different, as they say.
During those 4 days that I stayed away from the shepherds, we drank only the first, and then only very moderately. It's funny that in all there were only 2 of the stack, they are in front of you.
It is difficult to imagine the thought of this lady, she visited here actually :) I knew it would be that they see her eyes with a paper this poster
And here is a small part of the books Petit uncle, sometimes he reads one book, then puts, not having read, takes another, easily and at the same time a third reading.
Oleshko of teams.
If someone in harness white or some other interesting color deer, the other called it vypendrozhnikom and womanizer ... by analogy with some mod on a sports convertible, prancing along Nevsky, for example. Funny, I think :)
Accustomed reindeer sleds from many years living next to the host, and know it well. Therefore, in old age they know and feel what will happen now, when in the hands of a reindeer herder near the knife comes with them.
Deer do not cry, no sound, except the sniffing does not produce those individual scientists, knowing that their hour has come often - cry. Such deer are usually the owners themselves do not clog, ask others to understand why ... ...
But what happens to glass chase you through thickets on the Buran.
Teapots and things, things, things ...
dried jumper - traditional clothing of reindeer breeders, of course deer, stitched like shirt, fur inside, top malitsa - Sovik, a cape made of thick fabric. In malitsa also built and mittens. Odozha very warm, so I'm in there and drove me :) She gave the man through whom I got here - Vasily, another wonderful, exceptional northerner unyielding rock.
And more zarisovochka.
In fact, Vasily. The jumper and tOborkah note on the knife ...
That it is larger. It is a tool, like a sheath and belt, herders do it themselves. With these knives herders can do everything: to make fire, eating, butcher the carcass, and so on and so forth....
Without sheath after use.
The vast expanses! Oh, there would be at least one clear denok ... to receive more sensitive pictures probably.
And this new generation of shepherds nickname - "Mafia", a nice guy, he was like 33 years old, very short, funny, and, as it seemed to me, with a big kind heart.
In the case, more for leisure korotaniya in anticipation of the work, we go to rybalochku. At 15 meters from the hut - stream out water for cooking and drinking. A more lace and via pins (or thin Carnation) for 15 minutes to 20 nadergano ferelenok small. That's ... "Mafia" nadergano more than others, that is what "Mafia"
parking, near the Museum: deer, Buran snowmobile-inomarochka, all stages of the development of local transport
In summer, someone came rebetonok. He was immediately taken control. What there Pikachu transformers? :)
Finally! We waited for this 3 days, drove the flock, for the sake of such a sight worth it to take such a long journey, in this moment you understand that very clearly. In general, before the arrival of deer hut lives monotonously - tea, dominoes, movies, conversations, fishing ... And when comes the deer, everything changes.
Start ... Ghonim herd has already prepared the corral.
When the deer driven to the corral, they go there do not want to begin frantically circling the entrance to the paddock until they slowly still not forced to run ... it lasts a few tens of minutes (at least at this time), show very impressive, about 1,500 head.
The deer corral some more time, do not calm down, although they are not in it just happened.
This is the central chamber in her batch run deer, where the most experienced shepherds they are distributed to other parts of the corral, then they are labeled with deer in different ways, for example by opening a ear to different attributes they understand what kind of deer, whose it et al. important information, which are entered into the computer 2 a person of filial herders sit "counters" in a special booth, there ... in the background.
Deer jump, rave ...
dehorn, then they pass on the production of the drug to enhance immunity, and especially for the male power ... and on the product itself, if necessary.
The most "dusty" and unskilled work - young. Heavy work, I tell you. Although it should be clear.
People with "computer" data are entered.
While light - panoramka.
These are already considered.
When I went back to the village, in a sledge lying on two horned deer head and other parts of the carcass. Not live with shepherds a few days from this neighborhood would certainly embarrassed. But watching the attitude of these people to their deer, is well absorbed, that these animals - their whole life, and vice versa, deer live thanks to the shepherds who spend months in the tundra, the watchman deer, helping them see the light, protecting from predators, small parasites and poachers. So that the picture of butchering, skinning, etc. Are quite a clear and calm sight.
Twilight somewhere five o'clock in the afternoon.
"Charmed" fascinated with the poster reindeer.
Tea, tea, tea ... kinoshka, tea, tea, tea ... dominoes
For breakfast, lunch and dinner here and herders in the nearest village - venison. (The soup, with pasta, with rice in blood and meat patties and so on. D.) A miracle! I'm not talking about the local mash of jam from forest and marsh berries, about the fish the lake and river, wet and frozen, salted and smoked ... and so on. D., And so on. N. Novikov with its restaurants "nervously smoking" for example .
It is a tasty dietary brew.
Some things look davolno piquant in this entourage :) Inside things like candles for the Buran.
For each herder tea cup and have an iron bowl. The cup is filled to overflowing hot beverage is drunk from then bowls.
Well, not an easy day came to an end. Is about to cut off diesel and all around amazing plunge into the deafening silence, occasionally interrupted by barking dogs. In this silence yasneet and clears the mind and spirit. North thing is ... you need to try, it does not explain. Special thanks to all herders, extraordinary people. The audience for their attention - merci and all soperezhivshim - special thanks.